Ask any dermatologist what one of the best wrinkle-reducing ingredient is, and we’re prepared to wager our firstborn they’ll say retinoids. However there’s a gentler, barely extra under-the-radar different on the market: Derms additionally love peptides for his or her skin-smoothing advantages (particularly, their capability to reduce strains with out inflicting irritation). If retinoids like retinol and tretinoin are the Regina George of skincare, then peptides are the Cady Heron—extra chill, nicer to your face, however nonetheless completely worthy of being the star of the present.

The advantages of peptides are respectable, with loads of science to again them up. And whereas dermatologists typically suggest them as an alternative to retinoids, significantly for individuals who can’t tolerate the latter, in addition they play properly with most different “actives” (together with, sure, retinoids, in addition to vitamin C). In different phrases, you shouldn’t have an issue working them into your routine.

The caveat? “Peptides” is a surprisingly broad class and purchasing for one of the best merchandise can require a bit extra legwork than you would possibly anticipate. That’s why we requested a couple of consultants to clarify precisely what to search for when choosing peptide serums and moisturizers—and break down the nitty-gritty of what they’ll do to your pores and skin.

Initially, what are peptides?

“Peptides are brief chains of amino acids which are the constructing blocks of assorted proteins,” David Kim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Idriss Dermatology in New York Metropolis, tells SELF. They play a key position in a wide range of processes all through your physique; in the case of your pores and skin, peptides are vital as a result of they assist make up the proteins collagen and elastin. Collagen is just like the scaffolding to your pores and skin, giving it help and construction so it stays agency, whereas elastin retains it stretchy and, yep, elastic, Dr. Kim says.

Each collagen and elastin manufacturing innately begin to lower round your late 20s or early 30s, when indicators of growing older akin to wrinkles and laxity can begin to pop up. That’s the place peptides are available in: They can assist counteract a few of these results, he explains. To that time…

What can peptides do to your pores and skin?

Right here’s the place issues get just a little extra sophisticated. Not all peptides are created equal. As a basic rule, they’re utilized in skincare for his or her capability to easy high-quality strains and wrinkles, Angela Lamb, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and affiliate professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai in New York Metropolis, tells SELF.

Relying on the kind of peptides you’re speaking about, nevertheless, they’ll additionally produce other useful results, together with reducing irritation and performing as antioxidants, Mona Foad, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Cincinnati, tells SELF. (There are even antimicrobial peptides which have been proven to have wound-healing properties, although they’re much less possible for use in skincare.)

Topical peptides are usually categorised into these 4 classes, all of which you could find in serums, moisturizers, and the like (albeit some extra generally than others).